Akbar, The Greatest–A Cat Story

Akbar, center, has the clipped ear that shows he has been neutered.
The other two cats were neutered before they left the UAE for USA.

This is a story about three very lucky cats, told in turns by Deb, me, and Dana.

Deb -- If you’ve been following Anne’s blog, you might remember reading about Dana’s and my cat, Akbar. We found him near our apartments, living life in the park along the Eastern Corniche.

Anne – Soon after Deb and I arrived in the UAE, we took a walk along the Eastern Corniche to a large park. Deb and I had been talking about all the cats we were seeing around town. How did they survive, we wondered? Is anyone in charge of controlling the populations? I found a non-profit organization online called Feline Friends. I knew that Deb was a cat person, and missed her pets back home, and I thought she might like to volunteer.

The park where it all began.

We walked through the park to the end, noticing several cats, and one caught Deb’s attention and sympathy because he appeared to be hobbling.

Deb – Akbar has a handicap on his front leg and paw. He holds up his short leg and claw-like paw, and hops when he walks. He was following Anne and myself as we were walking in the park. “Don’t look back,” Anne said. “He’ll just follow us.”
 
Anne – I had this foreboding feeling, like this lame stray cat would follow us all the way back to our car, which was about two miles of sidewalk along the corniche. Or, that Deb would pick him up and carry him. What would we do then? “Oh, poor baby,” she was saying. “No!” I warned. “Let’s go. Hurry!” We weren’t sure what kind of diseases these feral cats might have!

Deb called Feline Friends and got some information from them. First, she learned that they spay and neuter cats, but it’s a losing battle to try to keep up with the ever expanding population. Sometimes they are able to get them adopted, but the need is just too great. People leave, and they just abandon their pets. She also found out that my fears of disease were largely unfounded
.
Deb kept talking about that cat in the park. He couldn’t have been there long, she said, because he looked pretty healthy. And … and…

Akbar's sphinx-like pose.

Deb -- I took Dana my husband back to show him the cat, knowing he would win Dana’s sympathy. Within a month, we had befriended the cat and brought him in. He is The Greatest, and so we named him Akbar.

Deb loves hanging out with the cats.

Anne – There are people who should have cats, and people who should not. Deb and Dana are in the first group, and Mark and I are in the second. To be perfectly honest, we were flabbergasted that Dana and Deb had taken on this responsibility. But they were so happy about Akbar – Dana picked the name, and at first Deb didn’t like it, but accepted it. Of course, it turned out to be the perfect name. There's a funny story behind the name, which I cannot go into here but you will understand if you know Mark's or Dana's sense of humor. You can read about it here.

Akbar, The Greatest.

There were several trips to the American Veterinary Clinic to determine Akbar’s age and what his condition was. He was about two years old, already neutered. His lame paw turned out to be a congenital deformity, but one he managed with very well. He soon grew fat and sassy. His favorite food was frozen shrimp, but he would eat anything. Deb became convinced that he was a domestic cat that had been recently abandoned in the park.

Now, Deb was taking care of Akbar and still feeding and watching over the neighborhood cats. Soon, she reported to me that there was a litter of kittens.

Deb -- We later found kittens in our compound. Once again, because of our love for animals, we took one in. Akbar needed a playmate, anyway. We named this one M.E. (Middle East.) A few weeks went by, and there was only one kitten left from the litter. As you can guess, yes, we also adopted him and named him Sammy.

Cats are just different here.

These orange and white cats clean up very well, once dusted. I’ve found their personalities to differ from cats in the U.S. Their legs are long, and they like to stretch out with the top half of their bodies in one direction while the bottom half is contorted in the opposite direction. They also lay on their back a lot, feet straight out.

The cats have their way in the apartment.

Anne – Although Deb enjoyed being in the UAE, she missed being home in St. Louis, where she and Dana had other pets including two dogs and three cats, as well as Deb’s three daughters and six grandchildren, and a house that needed attention. Before long, Deb was back in St. Louis and Dana was left in Abu Dhabi with the cats for company. Every few months Deb came to visit for a couple of weeks, or Dana went back to the U.S. He would have one of the guys from work who lives on the base come and stay in the apartment to feed the cats.

What are they doing? Mark and I thought. What happens when they leave the UAE for good? Will they try to find someone to adopt all these cats? It seemed impossible.

They seemed to be saying, "We are ready to go."

Deb – We are now taking the three of them back to the U.S. The American Vets here have been very helpful. We did a lot of the work ourselves, to cut costs. Even so, it cost us 7000 AED, or about $2,000 US. The vet charged us 1200 AED for the paperwork.

Anne – Cats are everywhere in the UAE. Every apartment compound or villa has its population, and any debris box left open on the street will have at least one cat inside, and probably several, rummaging through the trash, especially at night when it’s cooler.

Neighborhood cats live in the bushes.

People put out food and water for their neighborhood cats, although in our compound there are signs posted that say not to do it. Even Tom, who is allergic to cats, set out food and water in the little courtyard that he has at his villa when he discovered a pregnant cat. Last weekend, everyone in his compound got a notice from Feline Friends saying that cats there would be trapped, neutered and returned to where they were found, and asking for volunteers to help out. They do this a couple of times a year.



The other day I was disposing of a bag of trash from my adopted beach into a debris box in a deserted area under the bridges, and I heard a rustle from inside the box. Sure enough, out jumped a scrawny, dirty cat. I admit it - I was kind of disgusted. But there is another side of the coin. Mark told me they eradicated the cats on base and – you guessed it – were soon overrun with rats.

Neighborhood cats escape the heat under cars.

Deb – These three are the lucky ones. This is Sammy, Akbar, and M.E.’s story and their goodbye to the UAE. We’re going home to St. Louis. As Dana says, they are part of our family now. His friend at work, Saeed Rashid Al Shehhi, says they are very, very lucky to have the honor of becoming U.S. citizens.



If you are living in the UAE, and you can’t adopt a cat, maybe you can help by getting a cat neutered or spayed. Contact Feline Friends, Abu Dhabi Wildlife Center, or the Falcon Hospital.

Dana – Akbar, M.E., and Sammy made it safely to St. Louis. Akbar has taken over the house, intimidating the older cats. He gets as close as he can, and stares them down. They can’t stand it. He also has control of the two dogs. He walks past them slowly, and they don’t chase him. It took Akbar only a few days to figure out the dog door, and now the three cats go outside during the day and sit together on fallen trees in the open space behind the house.

M.E>, Akbar and Sammy survey their new territory.

Anne – Of course, Akbar is the king, sheikh, and ultimate ruler of the household. I expected nothing less. After all, he is “The Greatest!”

Thanks for reading.

Here is the photo album. Mark wrote the captions; they represent his unique sense of humor.

Akbar and Friends VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

IDEX– Showcasing Mark’s work

Mark and his Fu Manchu vehicle

There usually isn’t much I can say about what Mark is doing over here. He works at a high security military facility, and I can’t visit him there, much less write anything about it. But IDEX, a biennial exhibition and conference, provided an opportunity to see his work, take photos, and write about it in the blog.

According to the IDEX website:

The International Defence Exhibition and Conference, IDEX, is the most strategically important tri-service defence exhibition in the world. IDEX is the only international defence exhibition and conference in the MENA region demonstrating the latest technology across land, sea and air sectors of defence. It is a unique platform to establish and strengthen relationships with government departments, businesses and armed forces throughout the region.

A few days before the conference began it was Valentine’s Day, and Deb and I met Mark, Tom and Dana at a hotel near the exhibition center, ADNEC, for a bubbly and snack. As we left the hotel, a large group of young guys clad in pristine black jumpsuits and matching caps were coming in through the hotel door. “Hey, I like those snappy uniforms,” I said. “Why don’t you guys dress like that?”

“Because,” they replied. “We’re not snipers.” Oh.
 

The normally vacant bleacher area became
a hub of activity for several weeks.

There had been a lot of action around ADNEC that week; it looked like they were tearing up and rebuilding the whole place, which around here isn’t as far fetched as it sounds. They tore apart and rebuilt part of the pedestrian bridge, and were setting up tents and temporary buildings everywhere. On my neighborhood bike rides near Al Bateen Airport, I was being buzzed by the fighter jets practicing right overhead. One day we were driving past ADNEC and suddenly came upon a road closure. We looked up and saw a group of paratroopers practicing dropping in. It was all pretty exciting.
 
The show was an opportunity for Mark, Tom and Dana to show off some innovative vehicle repurposing and upgrading solutions they’ve been working on. There were two vehicles that Mark was particularly proud of.

Al Taif was front and center.

The Al Taif booth, Tom’s, Dana’s, and Mark's employer, featured the latest version of the UAE manufactured NIMR vehicle with a French Nexter ARX20 remote turret mounted to the overhead gun ring. The purpose of including the vehicle in the Al Taif booth was to show the engineering integration skills of Al Taif. Dana and Mark lead the group of engineers and designers who designed, built and installed the turret and controls in the vehicle.

Passengers riding in back can see the action on
a separate screen.

The vehicle was well placed right next to the main isle where visitors passed to the outside exhibition bleachers.The turret had a dummy gun but was otherwise fully functional, allowing the operator to slew the gun, sight in various targets, and play shoot’em up. Kids, probably because of their computer gaming skills, were the fastest to master the operation. The vehicle was a real hit at the show, with countless visitors stopping by to try it out.
 

The critical piece is hidden behind the mustache.

The other vehicle of interest was the black vehicle pictured at the start of this blog. Mark’s design team designed, built and installed the “Fu Manchu” mustache-looking plow on the front of the Police Security NIMR vehicle variant. A high-ranking UAE Army staff officer conceived of the idea for this vehicle at a meeting and challenged the manufacturer to have it ready for IDEX, about 5 weeks hence. Mark's group heard about the need for a plow just 3 weeks before IDEX. No problem they made the delivery with time to spare

The hydraulic actuator that we now own.

The key to the design, and the hard part, was the rotary hydraulic actuator. Working around the clock because of time differences, Mark located the only one available anywhere at the Helac Corp. factory in Washington State, purchased it using a his credit card, had it air shipped and received it in 3 days. Wow. Of course he’s still waiting to be reimbursed for the cost, but it was worth it to see it on the vehicle. The NIMR manufacturer and UAE Army Staff were very pleased with the outcome.

HH General Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed al Nahyan
speaks with Al Taif's Saeed Rashid Al Shehhi.

The real honor for all was when His Highness General Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the UAE Armed Forces, came to the Al Taif booth. He spent a lot of time looking at the NIMR with the ARX20 Turret and talking with Saeed and others. 

Abdul Azziz introduces HH Sheikh Mohammed to the vehicle.

Mark’s co-worker Abdul Azziz showed and explained the turret to HH Sheikh Mohammed and demonstrated how it worked. What a thrill for Abdul Azziz!  Mark has spent a lot of time working with Abdul Azziz, and enjoys the sharp young Emirati engineer with boatloads of charisma and potential as a future leader.












A daily IDEX magazine is published, with stories about defense companies and the total of contracts signed at the conference. The next day’s cover photo was of Abdul Azziz and HH General Sheikh Mohammed, making Abdul Azziz a bona fide rock star.
 
 
 
 
 




I went to IDEX with Deb on the last day of the conference. I wanted to see the vehicles Mark had been telling me about, and meet some of the people he works with and has talked about. Plus, there was a show with live demonstrations. We went with Dana and sat in the outdoor bleachers facing the road to watch the show. Across the road we could see the military ships at the ADNEC docks, which you could access through the newly rebuilt pedestrian overpass.

The outdoor theater.

The area in front of the bleachers had been transformed to look like a combination desert scene and stunt show, with a small cluster of little houses on one side and then all sorts of ramps and a big loop. This was the purpose-built Live Mobility Track for vehicle demonstrations. “My kids would love this,” I thought. Brian is on a BMX stunt team, and Nicole rides dirt bikes competitively. High overhead, two large screens were suspended on wires, and two other large screens flanked either side.

A village scene, with children playing and mothers working, fathers fishing and pearling.

Public events in the UAE always include performances and demonstrations related to Arab culture and UAE’s heritage. The show started with a peaceful scene of family life in the village – children playing games, men and women weaving and preparing food.

Before oil, the economy was based on fishing, pearling and trading.

Pearling and fishing dhows came by in the background, floating on an elevated moat that had been built especially for the IDEX show. Traditional Arab khaliji music, featuring drums and oud, played in the background. Eventually, groups of boys, men, and young girls entered the arena and began to dance.

No Arab scene would be complete without camels.

The men dance rhythmically.

The dancing of the men and boys symbolizes hunting or battles, using swords, sticks or rifles.

The young girls wore beautiful, brightly colored, sparkly dresses that flowed and fluttered in the wind. They swayed with the music, bending their bodies so that their long flowing black hair swung from side to side. When these girls become young women, they will most likely wear the black abaya covering their dresses and the shayla covering their hair in public, and some will choose to wear a niqab or veil covering their faces. Their beauty will only be seen by their family members and, later, their husbands. This is beginning to change as women enter the work force and must communicate with co-workers and the public, but I think many women are still more comfortable with their faces covered.


For a long time, the group paraded and danced around the performance area until they finally left the arena. Afterward, an eclectic mix of several bands performed.

IDEX Emirati Heritage Pageant VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

Then the war started.

Vehicles swarmed into the arena, groups of soldiers ran around with guns, and ATV’s and dirt bikes flew up and down on the jumps and ramps, and looped the loop. I kept thinking how much fun it must have been for those stunt riders. What a gig!

But it was disconcerting to see the little houses, where the children had been playing and the mothers and fathers working, being blown up. More and more vehicles came, and eventually helicopters and fighter jets. Simulated bombs were dropped and explosives went off on the roofs of the little shacks. Battles were fought and won. Prisoners were marched away, hands in the air. And all the while, the stunt riders rode the ramps and looped the loop, and the vehicles drove up and down the ramps and around the arena, demonstrating their capabilities. It all kicked up a lot of sand.

The bad guys, in black, were finally rounded up.

There were several videographers shooting video that was projected onto the screens in real time, cutting from one scene to another. I couldn’t help but be impressed at the seamless video production. Every scene looked like perfectly planned, choreographed chaos, and the photographers seemed to know exactly where to be at any given time. We even saw one scale up the side of one of the towers on a rope, and rappel back down. I wonder if they were soldiers, too.

IDEX Live Mobility Demonstration VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

This guy had the beauty queen wave down.

The show went on for about an hour and a half – much longer than the one that Mark had seen two days before. Maybe they had a lot of explosives to use up, this being the last day. After the “war” ended, they started parading more vehicles around, sort of like a military vehicle beauty pageant, but we decided it was time to see some of the exhibits. I went back to the Al Taif booth to find Mark.

There were some pretty interesting looking vehicles, but the ones that I thought were the most blog-worthy usually had a “No Photo” sign on them.

The album below has vehicle photos taken by Mark, with captions – some quite humorous – written by him. This includes some of the vehicles he rode in during last year's week-long Summer Trials in the Empty Quarter. 

IDEX Vehicles and People VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

GIS technology is everywhere in your life now,
whether you realize it or not.

Somehow, what most easily caught my eye was anything to do with geography …

It's important to stay hydrated in the desert.

… or gear.
 
 

Mark, Tony Norrish and Tom are longtime colleagues.
Tony works in Turkey now.

Mark is close to the end of a long and successful 40+ year career in the defense industry. I could see that it was gratifying for him to see vehicles that he’s worked on developing, and to run into so many colleagues  that he’s known for so many years. He took me to meet some of the people he worked with at BAE Systems in Santa Clara, California.


Mark has told me of people he knew who were sent to work in far away places like Turkey or Australia, and he saw them at the show as well as some people who came from the U.S. At one time, I could never imagine us moving to such exotic locations, but look where we ended up! It still just amazes me to realize that we are here in the Middle East.

There are so many resources that are put into defense and the military. What a huge business. As with the auto industry, in which my father worked as a research physicist for 41 years in Detroit, defense is linked to many other other industries, such as transportation and aerospace. As Dana commented when we were leaving, it was amazing to see all this in one place.





Hopefully all this equipment will be used to defend these countries, their citizens, and interests, and not misused for aggressive purposes.

Thanks for reading, and may peace be with you and yours.

Here is a short video of the live show.
  

Moroccan Lunch with Abdul and Family

The Golden Tulip Khasab Hotel

Mark booked two hotel rooms for us and Tom Saturday night after the Musandam boat trip with Abdul because we needed to stop at the U.S. Consulate in Dubai on the way home the next day. When Abdul heard that we would be in Dubai he said “You can come to my house for lunch!” We accepted, despite knowing that it meant yet another big meal, and I began to look forward to meeting Abdul’s wife and family.

The hotel has a nice pool and also a dive center.

The Golden Tulip Khasab Hotel is part of a chain of Golden Tulip hotels in the Middle East, and only a couple of minutes drive from the harbor. Upon checking in, we were surprised and pleased to find that Tom’s our rooms were adjacent, overlooking the pool and the sea, and very nice. Even though it seemed like all we did on the boat was relax, all three of us felt exhausted. We rested up, and then went downstairs to see if we could get something light, just a snack, for dinner. We were, by this time, feeling seriously overfed and we knew we were in for another feeding at Abdul’s the next day. All three of us were in the mood for just a little salad and maybe some soup. And some wine.

We went into the lounge and ordered a bottle of red. Of course, as with most hotels here, there was a huge buffet. When we told our waiter that we just wanted to order soups and salads, he suggested that we could get the soup and salad portion of the buffet. It was better than ordering a la carte. We reluctantly agreed – even though we knew it meant that we were getting access to too much food, again.

A selection of mezzes, or starters.

A salad bar includes all the mezzes – stuffed vine leaves, hummus, muttabal (eggplant dip), a number of little fried goodies like kibbeh, which are a dough made with bulgur and lamb, and stuffed with an onion and lamb mixture, or sambousek, which are dough wrapped around a lamb or cheese filling. There are always several kinds of feta cheese, and labneh which is yogurt cheese, rolled in dried herbs.

Fattoush, named after the bread it contains,
is one of my favorite salads.

The various salads always include fattoush, a leafy green arugula salad tossed with viniagrette dressing containing the special ingredient sumac, and sprinkled with fried bits of Arabic bread (pita); tabbouli (chopped parsley and bulghur salad); Greek salad; beetroot salad; yellow corn salad; green bean salad; cold grilled vegetables …and this salad bar also had fresh mussels in the shell, which I can never resist, and I think there was calamari salad. I can’t remember what else, but I’m sure there was more. And there was a delicious creamy pumpkin soup. We tried to control ourselves, but it wasn't easy.


The next morning, I made sure to get up early enough to go for a swim. I had gone down to test the water temperature the day before because around here, swimming pools can be uncomfortably warm. I was very surprised to find the water actually COLD! Nevertheless, I put on my swim flippers and goggles and ventured in. It felt great even though, since I’m not used to cold water now, it chilled me through and through by the time I was done swimming. That was by far the coldest I have been here. We made coffee in our rooms and skipped the breakfast buffet; we just couldn't face it.

After a whirlwind sightseeing drive through the town of Khasab, we wound our way back along the coast road, while I took some photos from the back seat.

Road to Khasab VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

We managed to find the U.S. Consulate in Dubai. This, in itself, was an accomplishment. Mark had made an appointment, which is required for U.S. citizens who need services, except in an emergency. Appointments are available 12:30 to 3:00 p.m. four days a week; you can make one online. How about those hours! We arrived an hour early for our 1:30 appointment and joined the line of people waiting for the opening. No problem, we showed the confirmation we had printed out with our appointment time, and were ushered inside. Next, through security – no cameras or cell phones, no purses. We brought in our passports and wallets, and our documents to be notarized; that’s all. Tom waited outside under a palm tree. After a very short wait, we signed and initialed ten papers which were stamped by the notary, a very nice and helpful young American woman. The only bad thing was that each stamp cost $50 U.S. whereas it would have been free at our credit union in the U.S. So I recommend two things: One, get your papers notarized while you are in the U.S. And two, if you must do it here arrive early, at opening time if possible, regardless of the time of your appointment.

I took this photo using a wide angle lens.
It's the only way to get
the whole building in the shot.

Next we called Abdul, who told us where to meet him. I have learned that when you visit Emiratis for the first time, they never try to tell you where their house is; they meet you and lead you there instead. Which makes sense because there are no addresses here. And no street signs, to speak of, in the neighborhoods. Instead, there is a confounding system of zones, sectors, and building numbers. Abdul told us to take the exit just past Dubai Mall, where the Burj Khalifa is.

The Burj Khalifa can be seen from the DOSC private beach.

We met Abdul at Safa Park and drove to his house a couple of blocks away. Mark and I recognized the area, which is in the same part of town as the Dubai Offshore Sailing Club, and only about 5 km or so from the Burj Khalifa.







When we were camping and boating with Abdul, we always asked about his wife and wished she were along on the trip. Lucy, Deb, and I always wondered if she gets upset that he is off having fun without her. Abdul always has a similar answer: “No, it’s OK.  She doesn't want to come. She won’t leave the children.” This time, he told us proudly that his older son was playing his first football game as goalie. If he did well, he would be given that position, which in the UAE means being paid a sum of money for playing in the games. And believe me, it’s a lot more money than a paper route! Do they even have those in the U.S. any more?

“And you aren't going?” Tom asked. Tom has three boys, all grown. “No, it’s OK, ” Abdul said. “My wife is there.” As this sank in, he added, “She takes care of the children. I take care of the guests.” This is the Arab culture of hospitality. If you tell an Arab person that you are in town, or coming for a visit, they will drop any other plans or appointments they might have to host you.

I asked Abdul if I could write about his experience and
views on marriage. People are interested. "Yes," he said. 

Abdul likes to talk about marriage. He has had three wives although, as he quickly points out, only one at a time. The Arab men we have talked with agree that it’s best to have one wife at a time. Otherwise, it’s too complicated. Too much jealousy, too hard to treat them equally, as the Quran instructs. It’s not possible. One wife is enough, but Abdul didn't find the right match until the third try.




His first wife was Mexican – Chicano, he says. He met her when he studied in the U.S. But there was a problem. Abdul’s mother was unhappy with the marriage. The grandchildren would be too far away. So, Abdul and the wife agreed to go their separate ways.

Abdul’s second marriage was arranged. This is still a common way for Arabs to become engaged. The mother announces her son’s intention to marry, and the search is on for a good match. Usually someone within the family is preferred, such as a distant cousin. It may even be a first cousin, in which case the couple will undergo genetic testing for possible health risks to their offspring. Either one of the couple is free to turn down the proposal, but often they don’t meet until the wedding and the decision is based on secondhand information.

“I married my second wife after looking at a picture,” Abdul told us. “This is how it happens, but it is no good. You cannot tell if you will get along just from looking at the picture. It is not love. It is better to marry for love.” So unfortunately the second marriage didn't work out, either.

“The third time,” Abdul said, “I married for love. My wife is Moroccan, but I met her here.” Abdul's wife speaks Arabic and French, but just a little bit of English. He had told us some of this story before, during the camping trip, but this time he added that until he met his wife, he didn't want to talk to Moroccan women. Why not, I asked? He waved his hand, shook his head a little and said, “They are supposed to have some kind of magic or something.” “Well,” I said, “she worked her magic on you, didn't she?” It’s obvious that Abdul married for love.

“Do you think that the way young people in the UAE meet and get married will change soon?” I asked Abdul. He nodded with certainty. “It is changing. Before, they didn't meet. But now, they go to the mall, and they see each other.” How soon will it change, within one generation? Yes, Abdul thinks so. His own children will choose their spouses. They will marry for love, inshallah.

The house is one level now, but
a second level will be added soon.

Abdul’s house is impressive, to say the least. Modern houses here have large privacy walls with elaborate metal gates, usually with some kind of opaque panels. Privacy goes along with the modesty that is so important in Arab culture. Behind the walls it’s sort of a private family oasis. We drove through the open gates. In the center of the courtyard was a large bubbling fountain, and to the left of that was a swimming pool.

“You can go swimming if you want,” Abdul said. I have to admit, I was tempted! Good thing I’d already had my swim for the day.

We entered the house, and went into the guest area, which was a suite of rooms including a majlis (sitting room), a dining room, a bathroom. And they were … splendid.

It's hard to convey the feeling of the rooms in photos.

The furnishings and decor were ornate, opulent, magnificent, and sumptuous. The coffee table was laid out with a huge bowl of fruit, including several exotic fruits we saw in Thailand – lychee, rambutan, and mangosteen. A tray held every variety of nuts and seeds, and another tray was filled with the most delicious dates, coated with chopped nuts – pistachios, almonds, and walnuts. We couldn't help but sample them, despite knowing that we were about to be served lunch.

Chinese style outdoor majlis

Abdul showed us around the property. The main house held the family’s living quarters. Outside were several outbuildings, sort of like fancy “mancaves.” First, we saw an outdoor majlis that Abdul called the “Chinese” room, maybe because the furnishings came from China.

Moroccan style indoor majlis

Another building was Moroccan, with a majlis decorated in the lavish Moroccan style and a tiled Moroccan bathroom.

Moroccan bath

Abdul described the Moroccan bath as a thorough scrubbing using special soap. Apparently it softens and whitens the skin. I think I could use one, after all the sun and salt water I've been in lately!

Decorative tagines are used to cover plates
and hold condiments.

This is the Moroccan kitchen. Abdul said they decided not to cook here, because the smell interferes with their enjoyment of shisha later. So, now the kitchen is just for looks. It’s much nicer, and roomier, than our Al Seef apartment kitchen.









Abdul’s little daughter accompanied us on our tour, stopping to point out the beautiful rosebushes in the front yard. Even though she was chattering in Arabic, I knew she was telling me to smell the roses, and we agree that they are very pretty.



Abdul’s wife arrived with the two boys, and she was very charming although we couldn't communicate well. We were soon served lunch. Everything was beautifully arranged, and brought out on fancy serving trays, which is the norm here. We were served three roasted chickens and, since Abdul doesn't like chicken, we had a meat dish – Moroccan lamb curry, braised with nuts and olives in a tagine. There were salads, and a huge pot of rice as well as Moroccan bread that was very similar to ciabatta. Abdul explained that while Arabs always have rice, Moroccans such as his wife don’t eat it; they have bread.

The two younger children ate with us, but the older boy – the budding soccer star – said he had already eaten. My guess is – Subway!

Pouring Moroccan tea

After lunch we sat on the couches and were served Moroccan tea. “Oh, I love Moroccan tea. It’s tea with mint,” I told Mark, who has recently discovered the digestive benefits of mint. “It’s mint, with tea,” Abdul corrected me. You put a little bit of green tea and sugar in the bottom of a pot, and then stuff it with fresh mint. Then you pour in the boiling water. To serve, you pour it into glasses – not teacups – from a distance of a foot or so above. I thought this was to cool the tea but no, it’s to make it bubble. We finished off the meal with some sweets.

Driving home, all three of us were in pain. We agreed that we would probably not eat for three days, and I don’t think we did. Well, except for the two roasted chickens that Abdul sent home with Mark and me.



Many thanks to Abdul and his family for their hospitality!

A final note: You may wonder why there are no photos of Abdul’s wife, and why I do not mention her name. This is out of respect for Abdul’s request for his wife’s privacy. Our American culture, especially now in the age of social media, we share information and photos. But I am sure there are many people reading this who can understand his wish to protect her privacy. 

Tagines for cooking